Red at First Sight
Marrakech (AKA The Red City due to clay buildings) had me seeing RED!
The response was purely emotive and had nothing to do with monikers or pigmentations!
The sights and sounds left me overwhelmed and I felt like such a traveling novice.
The craziest hoods in Miami couldn’t have prepared me for the chaos.
How could I expect reading a few blog postings to fully convey the message/reality?
We (I wasn’t solo) were coming off of a successful overnight glamping experience.
Though it had it’s fair share of ups and downs, the first leg of this intense Moroccan trip eventually came together!
We flew from Errachidia to Casablanca.
A driver was booked for the two hour ride to Marrakech.
That may have been where the day started going downhill.
We claimed our bags and waited outside in hopes of beating the early morning rush.
As we watched passenger after passenger board their transportation, I still had hopes that we would be doing the same eventually.
Thankfully an airport concierge offered to help and contacted the tour company.
They apologized profusely for cancelling. But it would’ve helped if they had simply communicated before we waited such a long time.
The airport employee arranged transport through a taxi for less than Viator had quoted for the cancelled shuttle.
I like to book everything ahead (especially when traveling somewhere for the first time.)
But had I known how easy it was, I would’ve booked the taxi upon arrival.
Murakush: Land of God?!? (Berber translation of Marrakech)
Long story short, we learned the hard way that Morocco had some bonafide hustlers.
I’ve never seen the like in all my travels. They even beat out the insistent merchants at Playa Blanca.
The taxi driver stopped to get gas and offered to buy refreshments.
I saw hiked up interest rates in my head. I politely declined.
He also tried to avoid giving a price upfront.
I had read that was a trick and to always confirm the amount before getting in any taxi.
The cab driver attempted to turn the drive into a tour. Thankfully, we “got smart real quick”!
Almost every blog about Morocco mentioned dishonest taxi drivers.
We had already learned that everyone had a hustle working with other businesses. I’m sure they got a cut based on customers.
I refused the driver’s offer to take us to an argan oil co-op and carpet store.
He was visibly offended! It showed in his aggressive driving.
But I had a detailed itinerary that didn’t allow room for anything else.
Like I stated in the Sahara Desert blog, there were only so many oil and carpets one could purchase.
The Medina (Old City of Marrakech)
Once we arrived in Marrakech, logistics was as much a worry for me as it had been in Errachidia.
The medina or old city was truly a transport back in time.
The old buildings, gates, donkeys, and fast moving scooters were an assault on the senses.
Previous guests of the riad (garden in Arabic) had stated in their reviews that it had been hard to find.
Some were even able to get an escort from the host.
The host offered transportation if we were flying into Marrakech’s airport.
But being as we were driving from Casablanca, I asked for landmark/directions.
She said it was very near to a school and gave me the name.
Hustle & Bustle
Once our cab driver saw that he could not haggle us into multiple stops, he grew very hostile.
He told us (albeit truthfully) that the taxi could not fit into the tiny corridors of the medina and we had to find our way.
He even attempted to charge us extra. I gave him exactly what was agreed upon.
We were dropped off in the middle of a busy medina with no idea how to get to the riad.
I had read the GPS was not reliable but it ended up being pretty reliable.
I panicked and gave in to the “street luggage porters” but in the end, the GPS would’ve been cheaper though longer and more work with the luggage on the cobbled streets.
When we left, we simply took about two trips on foot.
Long story short, the luggage porters tried to rip us off.
They kept insisting on a donation when I asked for a price but of course it wasn’t enough in the end.
So there we were arguing with Moroccans in a foreign city that we had just arrived in.
They even went the long way and tried to make the trip into a tour (sounds familiar?).
I rejected that too.
Parle Vous Francais?
After they gave up and finally left us alone, it was time to tackle the locked riad.
I knew the owner was an elderly lady, so I assumed she may have been hard of hearing.
We rang the doorbell, and even called a few times on WHATSAPP. She finally answered.
Now we dealt with a language barrier (her son wasn’t present to translate) and she claimed she didn’t see our booking.
By this point, I knew patience would be a virtue.
I tried to communicate with the few French words I knew from speaking French Creole.
She thought we were visiting from an African country but I told her we were from America.
The riad would be another lesson in Marrakech.
It seemed the mansion had seen better days and the elderly owner did not have reliable help.
Our room wasn’t ready and she had to change the sheets and dump the trash while we waited.
Tangled Weeds
That was the most cleaning the room and bathroom got.
By choosing to stay in a riad versus a hotel, I wanted a more authentic Moroccan experience and that’s exactly what I received.
Some riads are designed like hotels. This was actually her home.
I could see the beauty and grandeur that the place once held, but she was too elderly to do it all alone.
The biggest culture shock was the bathroom. I debated with myself and decided not to take pictures.
I had never heard of an “open air bathroom” but it was standard in Moroccan homes.
There was a sink, a toilet and little space in between to stand underneath a shower.
Imagine a shower in the center of your bathroom without any barriers/separation!
The germaphobe in me almost returned back home!
Even if the bathroom had been drenched in much needed bleach, my American sentiments wouldn’t allow comfortability.
Once I remembered the riad had a rooftop terrace, it was truly the saving grace of the place.
It was in much better condition than the riad and I enjoyed a photo shoot there.
Authentic Experience Me (Not)
Speaking of roofs, riads were designed like a solarium so the roofs were open to the elements and birds.
Some had barriers to shield from the sun (see video below).
I couldn’t believe I had booked two nights.
I didn’t know how it would be possible now.
Amusingly, as if she were our strict grandmother she told us not to ever leave lights or the heater on.
Did I mention, the heat barely worked and the sheets were threadbare?
We communicated that we needed to meet up with our tour and she insisted on serving us tea beforehand.
I noticed that Moroccan homes we had come in contact in with did not have the same sanitary standards with cutlery that we’re used to.
I was so afraid to eat so we nibbled at some stale cookies and drank the tea out of politeness.
She was such a sweet lady and even pointed us in the right direction to the tour pick-up.
Her kindness and hospitality almost made up for the riad!
One lesson I learned on this trip to Morocco is to always get the upgraded room or 4 star minimum for hotels. The standard is not the same as the US in most cases.
There were other rooms in the house that were a little better than the one I chose.
Half Day Tour of Marrakech
I found out on the tour that guides were not allowed at the sights.
So we basically had to be our own guides. We were just dropped off at each point.
I made do and tried to read the plaques (if there were any) for guidance.
This tour included Koutoubia Mosque, Saadian Tombs, Bahia Palace, and Jardin Majorelle.
Non-Muslims cannot enter Koutoubia Mosque but its beautiful architecture can be admired from the outside.
Bahia Palace was once the home of King Hasan.
The visit there is purely to admire the beauty of the Moroccan prints, colors, doors and gold accents.
It’s truly a photographer’s dream from the ornate ceilings down to the tiled floors.
Jardin Marjorelle
We arrived when the Yves Saint Laurent Museum was closing but was able to see the blue themed garden.
It reminded me of “the blue city” smack dab in Marrakech.
Jardin Marjorelle is another famous blue landmark in Morocco.
Many posts on social media display the vibrant hue of the gardens. This is also the location of the YSL museum.
Saadian Tombs is where Moroccan royalty are buried.
The lines to see the main tombs inside were too long so I opted for a stroll around the property.
There were more graves on the outside surrounded by a desert like garden.
The gardens is a place to admire, sit for a bit and of course, lots and lots of photos.
The guide omitted the part of the tour where he would be useful (the souks/markets).
So our only encounters was walking to and fro the medina.
I turned every stop into a photo shoot and was complimented on my caftans.
Many of the locals thought I had purchased them in Morocco.
For more info on what to wear in January, check out this blog.
The guide was “nice enough” though to take us in search of American food and KFC was near.
The food was passable but the COKE/Pepsi we’re used to did not taste the same (anywhere in Morocco).
This tour was also booked through Viator (Marrakech City Highlights Half Day Tour).
I did not leave a good review and tour seemed to be taken down.
Cooking Experience
We met Najlae at the butcher shop (on Rue de Berrima) where the Moroccan cooking lesson would begin.
A live chicken was used as demonstration.
We purchased chicken, fresh herbs and vegetables that would be used for the class.
Najlae gave us an insight on how she started her day.
It reminded me so much of my Bahamian upbringing. Most of our food was also fresh.
True Morcoccan Vibes
It was only in the US that I grew accustomed to freezing meat and buying mostly processed food.
Once I arrived at Najlae’s riad, I knew that it was the Moroccan experience that I had envisioned.
It was still someone’s home but you could see the thoughtfulness that went into every detail.
The best parts: it was sparkling clean and she let me in first to record!
She also had the open aired bathroom but the shower had a defined area slightly raised above the rest of the bathroom floor.
Our riad’s bathroom was dank and gloomy. Her bathroom was well lit.
The only similarity to the riads were the cleanliness or lack thereof of the silverware.
There were about fifteen people a part of the class so it was a big group.
Our host started with a history of tea and a demonstration of how it’s made.
I love how she elevated the experience with a beautiful tea set and kettle.
We enjoyed the customary cookies and cake to go along with the tea.
Next, we moved to a large table where prep would begin for cooking.ย
Moroccan Flavors
Overall, we used the experience to get to know one another.
We came from all walks of life, cultures and backgrounds.
The youngest of us was an eight year old girl accompanying her mother.
There were a few vegetarians among us so we made meatless dishes.
Moroccans use many spices to season their food and I’m sure that results from the African influence.
The way Moroccans cook is almost identical to Haitian cuisine.
Salt, black pepper, turmeric and ginger were their main four spices.
I added ginger to the chicken I made. Paprika was used for vegetables, cumin for fish, and cinnamon for sweets.
Najlae also used pickled/preserved lemons to add flavor to the dishes.
In Haitian cooking, we use limes to clean meats and squeeze the juice before hand as a marinade.
Tagine (tajine) was at the top of my list of foods to try in Morocco. I found the cone like pots quite intriguing.
A Flare for the Dramatic
I love a presentation especially with food. Using colors, every Moroccan person was an artist from souks to table.
My first authentic Moroccan meal took place at my guide’s home in Merzouga (Sahara Desert). It was a chicken and beef couscous.
I had couscous in the past and it wasn’t a favorite of mine. But this was cooked expertly to almost the texture of fine grits.
My favorite Moroccan meals were at the cooking class and the riverside restaurant in The High Atlas Mountains.
The dishes were made with generous amounts of seasonings. They use turmeric a lot which is in the curry family.
Tagine is typically served with bread. They can be sweet, savory or vegetarian. See here for more info.
Argan Oil
In my head, making argan oil would be an amazing thing to learn. In real life, not so much!
Loving it as a user is one thing, but making it is something altogether different!
It took too much patience to learn how to squeeze the oil. I gave up as quickly as I started.
This experience was booked through Airbnb and we were the only ones that got henna tattoos. So we stayed behind after everyone had left.
It was nice having Najlae all to ourselves. It was much quieter.
She was able to do each of our palms and it was a great experience.
Once I left Najlae’s home, I started feeling a little better about Marrakech.ย
TIP: Don’t fall for argan oil scams…authenticity is not limited to one city/region.
Fine Dining in Marrakech
Aย nice fine dining experience at Azar in Marrakech offset the traumatic riad experience.
For entertainment, they had belly dancers.
But the restaurant barely had space for them to dance. I wasn’t impressed.
The food and drinks were decent. I stuck with salmon and the veggies were Moroccan flavored.
The restaurant was also in a more modern area (Gueliz) that looked more like the 21st century.
We used taxis and had to go through the whole haggle process unfortunately!
High Atlas Mountains & Ourika Valley
On the last day in Marrakech, we headed up to the High Atlas Mountains.
Sadly this area was recently hit with deadly earthquakes. I hope in time the people will make a full recovery.
The altitude is about 13k feet at the highest peak.
It’s the highest I’ve ever gone up especially for a trek.
To my surprise my lungs began to work extra hard for air.
I had heard of altitude sickness but never experienced it.
I had to really slow my pace and remove my large coat so that I would not overheat or over exert myself.
The highland weather was pretty mild which worked in my favor!
The guides were very helpful and made sure I was ok. I couldn’t walk as fast as the group.
There was always one near and he offered to carry my belongings.
Eventually I seemed to adjust to the air and could breathe normally.
It was scary for a bit because I didn’t think I could make the journey.
I would rate the difficulty level high.
It was very rocky terrain and the walk was about an hour or so.
Shockingly, I saw many elderly people attempting it.
I would not do it again but I’m grateful for the experience and to see where these Berber people lived.
The landscape was naturally beautiful.
There were vendors with homemade goods set up as a continuous markets/restaurants along the trail.
Bali in Marrakech?
At one point, we reached an area that reminded me of Bali.
The outside restaurant had cushions lined up next to a river where you could sit and eat.
The view above was mountainous with houses littering a hill.
Our guide had us at regular tables not far away. I would’ve preferred the cushions.
We had a hearty chicken tagine ( three course) lunch and it was very flavorful and hot.
Moroccan people bake the best bread which accompanied our meal.
There was also a singing duo of Berber to entertain for tips.
I didn’t understand a word of their native chant but it was nice.
They were dressed up in a bright yellow tunics with handmade instruments and lightened up the atmosphere.
As with most Moroccan excursions, there was a visit to a women’s co-op in the High Atlas mountains.
It was a large operation rivaling a department store with argan and other essential oils, perfumes, spices and teas.
The building was designed in a hut style.
The back had a seating area for tea and light refreshments of bread with oil, honey and a Nutella like spread (amlou).
There were also neck and back massages available with the argan oil products for $3.
I took advantage of that with all of the traveling I had been doing!
Before heading deep into the mountains, we stopped at an area where camels could be ridden along the street.
This was included in the price.
Since the camels looked malnourished and I didn’t trust the safety of the road, I declined.
Looking Back
Now that I’m less emotional and far removed from Morocco, I can see myself returning.
When I was there…not so much!
My second experience would have to be in the newer part of town where it’s more modern and less chaotic.
I learned my lesson on an authentic cultural experience: Be careful what you wish for, you may just get it!
~PoofโฆBee Gone
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14 Comments
Robin
February 18, 2024 at 8:02 amWow, what an adventure. Love the colors and food of Monaco.
poofbeegone
February 18, 2024 at 2:39 pmHi Robin…I know what you meant…LOL…thanks for stopping by!!! ๐
Meri
February 18, 2024 at 8:32 amWhat an adventure! Iโve been to Marrakech so perhaps that helped a little but you are a great, descriptive storyteller so it was easy for me to envision the sites. Enjoyable read!
poofbeegone
February 18, 2024 at 2:40 pmHi Meri. That means a lot. Thank you so much!!! ๐
Brandi
February 19, 2024 at 8:00 amSuch beautiful and colorful photos!
poofbeegone
February 29, 2024 at 9:07 amHi Brandi! Thanks for stopping by! That’s the magic/allure of Morocco! ๐
Nancy
February 19, 2024 at 8:24 amLove the adventure
poofbeegone
February 29, 2024 at 9:07 amHi Nancy! Thanks for reading!!! ๐
Jolayne
February 19, 2024 at 12:54 pmSo colorful! It looks like an amazing experience. Definitely on my bucket list.
poofbeegone
February 29, 2024 at 9:11 amHi Jolayne! Thank you for stopping by! Here’s to making it happen!! ๐
KEVIN FOODIE
February 19, 2024 at 3:36 pmWhat great travel stories! Seems like Marrakech has many hustlers. The Food Explora in me is intrigued by the interestingly strong food culture in Morroco. The intricate and colorful architectural designs of the building are a sight to see. Thanks for sharing your travel experiences.
poofbeegone
February 29, 2024 at 9:13 amHi Kevin! Morocco was quite an escapade!!! Thank you for reading!!! Hope you get to experience it for yourself one day!!! ๐
Kimberley
February 19, 2024 at 6:30 pmThis was a great read, I felt like I was right there with you. You definitely had an authentic experience. Thanks for sharing!
poofbeegone
February 29, 2024 at 9:14 amHi Kimberley, your praise as a fellow writer means a lot to me! I think the highest compliment I could receive is in taking my readers along with me! Thank you a bunch!! ๐